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Inside Dhurandhar: How Smriti Chauhan Crafted Ranveer Singh’s Most Talked-about Look – Exclusive_我的网站

一 |     Costume designer Smriti Chauhan is one of the creative forces behind Ranveer Singh’s look in Dhurandhar. She says the film’s now-viral bearded avatar was born from months of iterative work, collaboration and a deep integration of costume with hair, makeup, lighting and performance. In an exclusive conversation with Filmfare, Chauhan breaks down the meticulous process, from conceptual sketches to 40-metre salwars and silicon jewellery designed to survive high-octane action.          Region, story and technical precisionChauhan reveals that the idea of a full beard was rooted in the character’s geography and cultural background. “We knew there was going to be a beard because of the region he comes from, what he’s performing and who he is,” she says. The hair and makeup team played a decisive role as well. They dictated the skin tone, lens colour and texture choices that needed to sync with her costume palette. “Costume and hair and makeup cannot be separated,” Chauhan emphasises. “The look comes alive only when all three, costume, HMU and lighting - work in harmony.”Ranveer’s inputs and a sharp eye for detailChauhan was nervous as she met Ranveer Singh for the first time while working on the movie. However, she says that the actor immediately put her at ease. But Singh was far from a passive participant. He dissected materials, cuts and accessories with precision. He’d ask, ‘Why linen? Why not silk? Why this jewellery? Why this structure?’ According to the designer, his questions pushed her to have solid answers.Smriti also shares, “And when you have the answers, it gives you more clarity. So with Ranveer, he ensured that he helps the two of us get clarity on the character. He also added some technical bits. He asked me to add a wire on the collar so that it stays like that when he is moving around.”          Ranveer’s physical transformationOne of the biggest challenges for Chauhan’s team was designing for a body that kept changing. Ranveer bulked up for a portion of the film and then shed weight rapidly for another. “We had to ensure that with every change in his body, the clothes didn’t show that change... The look had to stay consistent,” she shares.The character evolves from a street nobody to someone big. The costumes had to mirror his transformation. Initially, his look is rooted in ruggedness. “So all of this came together working very closely with him. We understood which materials are working the best and which is looking rugged. His entire journey in this film is like that of a nobody becoming somebody, like really big. So that journey itself was grand.”          The nightmare of action-friendly jewelleryLater, as the character rises in stature, accessories become key. Ironically, Chauhan had laughed off Ranveer’s early questions about accessories because of the heavy action sequences. But he persisted. “Cut to the first sequence in the teaser - he is loaded in accessories. I can tell you this, I’ll throw a rug on him and he’ll carry it with perfection. The next thing you know is that we have added so many accessories on him,” she adds.As the film is packed with lengthy action sequences, some shot over 10 to 12 days, Chauhan’s team had to create silicon jewellery that looked real but wouldn’t injure the actor or break under impact. “It was a nightmare but became necessary.”     The Balochi salwar challengeOne of the film’s most technically challenging pieces was the traditional Balochi salwar. The authentic garment uses 30 to 40 metres of fabric, which is impossible for action scenes. Instead, Chauhan’s team created prototypes using 17 to 20 metres. They experimented with fabric weight, fall, pleats and movement. “We kept making so many prototypes. When he wore it, it looked less; when we spread it out, it was huge. Overall, it was a massive learning experience,” she recalls.Months of prep, presentations and look testsThe team spent two to three months preparing Ranveer’s looks. They went through six different presentation decks and multiple iterations for each phase of his journey. Three comprehensive look tests were done even before shooting. Moreover, sudden scheduling changes accelerated everything. “We thought we’d shoot in October, but suddenly the shoot got pulled to July. We were like, ‘What?’ But luckily we had done early homework,” she recalls.The moment Ranveer called her a ‘Rockstar’Chauhan recalls one of her most overwhelming moments when Ranveer looked at the first major look test and told her he’d “never seen this level of detailing.” “Coming from someone who’s worked with the greatest designers worldwide, it meant the world. It pushed me to raise my own bar,” she says.Despite the scale, the pressure and the physicality of the film, Chauhan says Ranveer’s collaborative nature made the process smooth. “He is the best team player I could have asked for. His encouragement, his curiosity, his involvement - everything helped build the character’s world,” she quips.Also Read: Sara Arjun gives Dhurandhar co-star Ranveer Singh a moving tribute as she shares BTS photos。

二 |     图片经由AI生成。         文｜苏扬          编辑｜徐青阳          硅谷新一轮基础设施投资热潮启动了。         7月22日消息，OpenAI宣布启动其首个自主主导建设的200亿美元数据中心项目，并将到2030年的预计算力支出上调至7500亿美元；同日，AMD宣布将向Anthropic投资高达50亿美元，而Anthropic则承诺采购高达2GW的AMD最新一代AI芯片。         两项交易表明，科技巨头们的竞争已不再局限于单纯的芯片采购，而是全面延伸到了数据中心自建、能源保障以及底层基础设施的直接控制中。         01 OpenAI算力预算飙至7500亿          为了确保获得开发和运行AI模型所需的庞大算力，OpenAI进一步扩大了其数据中心规划与预算。         知情人士透露，受与云服务提供商达成的新协议推动，OpenAI已将其到2030年的预计算力支出从今年年初约6000亿美元上调至7500亿美元。         不过，随着OpenAI推进IPO进程，如何平衡计算成本与财务健康成为了管理层讨论的焦点。首席执行官山姆·奥特曼大力推动的算力扩张计划，让首席财务官萨拉·弗莱尔对公司的资金链状况保持审慎态度。

三 |          据悉，弗莱尔向管理层表达了隐忧，即如果业务收入的增长不及预期，公司可能会在未来履行庞大的算力采购协议时面临资金缺口。         在具体项目推进上，OpenAI宣布投资200亿美元，在佐治亚州埃芬汉姆县启动名为“Project Camellia”的数据中心项目。         在电力保障方面，OpenAI已与佐治亚电力公司达成协议，将在2028年至2032年之间分阶段获得3.2GW的电力供应。         据了解，该项目是OpenAI首次作为首席设计和开发方自主推进的数据中心。在此之前，OpenAI主要是向甲骨文、亚马逊AWS等云服务提供商租用算力。         为此，OpenAI聘请了此前在马斯克旗下xAI负责孟菲斯超级计算机数据中心建设的布伦特·梅奥（Brent Mayo），担任数据中心建设与交付负责人。梅奥将向本月晋升为算力首席技术官的乌代·鲁德拉拉朱（Uday Ruddarraju）汇报。         为了缓解公众对数据中心建设日益高涨的反思与抵触，OpenAI承诺在项目生命周期内提供8000万美元社区福利资金，用于学校、公共安全、医疗等领域。同时，向佐治亚州高校学生提供高达7100万美元的Codex代金券。并且采用闭环水循环冷却技术以极小化用水量。以及在用电高峰期主动自愿减少功耗，确保不推高当地居民电费。         除了佐治亚州的项目外，OpenAI还在推进多项算力协议：此前与甲骨文签约了6GW的数据中心容量；并在2月底将其与亚马逊AWS的云计算协议扩大至8年138亿美元（包含2GWTrainium芯片算力）；去年还承诺向微软Azure追加2500亿美元的云支出。         02 AMD与Anthropic“股权换订单”          和OpenAI一样，Anthropic也面临着极高的算力需求压力。此前强劲的需求曾迫使Anthropic限制用户使用频次，部分客户还报告了服务宕机问题。

四 |          为了缓解算力瓶颈并实现供应链多元化，AMD与Anthropic在同一日宣布达成重大战略合作。根据协议条款，Anthropic将从2027年上半年开始部署高达2GW的AMD最新一代Instinct MI450系列GPU。这些芯片将集成于包含EPYC“Venice”CPU、Pensando网络及ROCm软件的AMD Helios机架级解决方案中。         与此同时，随着特定部署里程碑的达成，AMD将向Anthropic进行高达50亿美元的战略股权投资。         双方还达成了工程合作协议，将利用Anthropic的Claude模型来优化针对AMD芯片的工作负载，并加速AMD ROCm软件的开发。AMD自身的工程和产品开发团队也将全面采用Claude。         AMD首席执行官苏姿丰表示，两家公司的工程团队已经合作了一段时间，大规模AI算力的部署需要提前12、18或24个月进行长期规划。据知情人士透露，AMD 目前还在洽谈为Anthropic未来的数据中心租赁债务提供财务担保。         根据《华尔街日报》报道，Anthropic在该交易中的算力策略涵盖了直接购买与租赁：既为自身设施直接采购部分AMD芯片，也通过其他云服务商或新云服务商租用部分算力。         此前，Anthropic已与谷歌、亚马逊及SpaceX签署了相关算力或数据中心容量协议，其工作负载同时运行在谷歌TPU、亚马逊Trainium及英伟达GPU等多种芯片之上。         特约编译无忌对本文亦有贡献。

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